How to Make Lapsang Souchong: Crafting the World’s First Smoky Black Tea
Introduction
If you’ve ever wondered how to make Lapsang Souchong—the legendary smoky black tea from China’s Wuyi Mountains—this guide unveils its secrets. Known as Zhengshan Xiaozhong (正山小种) in Chinese, Lapsang Souchong is revered as the earliest black tea in history, dating back to the 17th century. Its bold pine-smoke aroma and lingering sweet undertones (often compared to dried longan) have made it a global icon of artisanal tea craftsmanship.
What Is Lapsang Souchong? Decoding the Name
The term “Zhengshan Xiaozhong” breaks down into:
- Zheng (正): “Authentic,” referring to its origin in Wuyi’s protected Tongmu Pass region.
- Shan (山): “Mountain,” denoting the UNESCO-listed Wuyi Mountains.
- Xiaozhong (小种): “Small-leaf cultivar,” a wild tea variety native to the area.
True Lapsang Souchong is produced exclusively within the Fujian Wuyi National Nature Reserve (565 km²), where mineral-rich soil and misty high-altitude conditions create a tea with deep amber liquor, smoky complexity, and a subtle dried-fruit sweetness.
A Historical Legacy: From Bohea to Global Fame
- 1600s: Lapsang Souchong emerged as “Bohea Tea” in European markets—the only Chinese black tea exported at the time.
- 1700s: Imitations flooded the market. Qing dynasty records (e.g., Xù Chá Jīng) criticized “Wai-shan Xiaozhong” (“outside-mountain teas”) for mimicking Wuyi’s terroir but lacking depth.
- Modern Era: Authentic Tongmu-produced tea is now labeled “Zhengshan Xiaozhong,” distinguishing it from smoky teas made elsewhere.
The Tea Plant: A Rare Wild Cultivar
The indigenous “Xiaozhong” bush is a small-leaf variety (Camellia sinensis var. sinensis) thriving in Wuyi’s rocky microclimates. Historically documented as exceptionally rare:
“Each Xiaozhong plant yields mere ounces of leaves, surpassing even Gongfu black tea in value.”
— Lu Tingcan, Xù Chá Jīng (1734)
How to Make Lapsang Souchong: 8 Traditional Steps
| Step | Key Process & Purpose |
|---|---|
| 1. Plucking | Harvest one bud with two or three leaves from wild Xiaozhong bushes in early spring for balanced tenderness. |
| 2. Withering | Sun Withering: Spread leaves on bamboo mats under sunlight. Indoor Withering: On rainy days, use a “青楼” (smokehouse) to dry leaves over pinewood fires, infusing initial smokiness. |
| 3. Rolling | Gently bruise leaves by hand or machine to rupture cell walls, releasing enzymes for oxidation. Preserve leaf integrity. |
| 4. Oxidation | Ferment in bamboo baskets (25–28°C, 85% humidity) until leaves turn coppery-red. Partial oxidation retains floral notes. |
| 5. “Guo Hong Guo” (过红锅) | Flash-roast leaves in a 200°C iron wok to halt oxidation, lock in sweetness, and tighten leaf structure. Precision prevents burning. |
| 6. Second Rolling | Re-roll leaves to refine shape and intensify flavor concentration. |
| 7. Pine-Smoke Drying | Slow-smoke leaves for 8–12 hours in the 青楼’s upper chambers over smoldering Masson pine. This iconic step imbues the tea’s signature smoky richness and reduces moisture to ≤7%. |
| 8. Refining | Low-temperature baking stabilizes aroma, followed by grading to remove stems and impurities. |
Traditional vs. Modern Techniques
| Factor | Traditional Method | Modern Adaptation |
|---|---|---|
| Smoking | Direct pinewood smoke in 青楼; 8–12 hours of exposure. | Indirect smoke or shorter duration due to pine scarcity; some omit smoke entirely (“unsmoked Lapsang”). |
| Flavor Profile | Dominant pine resin smokiness with baked longan sweetness. | Balanced smoke, emphasizing honey, cocoa, or floral notes. |
| Sustainability | Resource-intensive (pinewood consumption). | Eco-friendly fuels or controlled smoke alternatives. |
| Production Scale | Small-batch, seasonal. | Mechanized processes for year-round output. |
Why Authenticity Matters
True Lapsang Souchong’s terroir-driven character cannot be replicated:
- Geography: Tongmu’s foggy climate slows leaf growth, concentrating amino acids and polyphenols.
- Pine Smoke: Masson pine resin interacts with tea compounds during smoking, creating a unique aromatic synergy.
- Legacy: UNESCO recognizes Wuyi’s tea culture as Intangible Heritage, with Lapsang Souchong at its core.
Conclusion: Mastering How to Make Lapsang Souchong
From pine-smoked withering to the final bake, learning how to make Lapsang Souchong is a journey into centuries-old tea artistry. While modern adaptations cater to diverse palates, traditional methods preserve the tea’s soul—a bold, smoky elixir born from Wuyi’s mountains. Whether you sip it straight or blend it into cocktails, Lapsang Souchong remains a testament to nature and craftsmanship intertwined.